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1. Parts Handling: How you handle the aluminum is an all too often overlooked part of the process that can cause corrosion problems. Un-gloved hands can be a source of  greases and oils which can carry other contaminates that can cause corrosion on aluminum. Also, placing parts that are still wet onto clean Kraft paper in an attempt to keep freshly machined parts clean can lead to sulfate contamination and corrosion. All papers are manufactured using a sulfuric acid digestion process and when wet, a small amount of that acid is leached from the paper that is in contact with the part.

2. Water and Coolant Stains: Bare aluminum will be affected by water and machine coolant left on the parts after machining. Clean your parts well, using a mild, alkaline soap. As well, the quality of your tool coolant is important. Old coolant can become contaminated with algae and bacteria which can stain your parts, even if it’s not visible before anodizing. 

3. Cutting and Tapping Fluid: Please clean cutting and tapping fluid out of threads as soon as possible, do not let it dry !  Once cutting and tapping fluid is dry in the threads, it becomes solid and cement-like and will come out in the anodizing tanks and will cause problems on the surface of the aluminum.  Clean out with acetone as soon as possible after using.

4. Bare Aluminum: Aluminum that is bare will start to corrode naturally in the air. Older aluminum parts that have been sitting about for some time may appear to be free of corrosion, but this corrosion is present and will be visible after anodizing.

5. Sanding Aluminum: If you need to improve the appearance of the aluminum before it is sent to us, please use only new, clean Scotch-Brite™ pads, aluminum oxide sandpaper, aluminum oxide buffing compound or aluminum wire brushes each time. These are the only acceptable items to clean up the surface finish to remove blemishes and imperfections.  Use of any other types of sandpaper or brushes may cause particles that do not anodize to become embedded into the aluminum, which will cause white specs and dots to appear after the dyeing process.

6. Clear Chromate Film: Please inform us if the aluminum parts that you send us have been previously clear chem. Film coated.  While we do etch the aluminum before anodizing, it is not enough to strip the chem film off, which will compromise the anodizing process. A longer etch time is needed in this circumstance.

7. Extrusion Lines: Extrusion lines visible on aluminum parts are a result of the wear of extrusion tools and will be visible after anodizing.

8. Welded Parts: The recommended rod for welding on aluminum parts needing anodizing is 5356. If the wrong rod is used, anodizing will make these welds dark, ruining the visual appearance. Also, if inside corners of enclosures are welded, make sure they are leak-proof, as caustic anodizing solution may become trapped and leach out during the sealing process, ruining the visual appearance on dyed parts.

9. Blemishes and Defects: Anodizing hides nothing! If your parts are sent to us with ink stampings, marker, scratches, and other visible defects that you do not want on the finished part, then we will prepare your parts by removing ink and sanding out scratches, but extra charges may be added. A rule of thumb that Anodizers use is: “garbage in, garbage out!”. Anodizing will not turn ugly parts into beautiful parts, it will simply turn ugly parts into anodized ugly parts.

10. Tape and Plastic Film: Adhesive tape and protective plastic film is not recommended to label or  protect your parts because it leaves behind a sticky residue that must be removed prior to anodizing. If not removed, it will be visible after anodizing, especially if your part is to be dyed. We cannot be held responsible for this occurrence.

11. Racking Marks: Your parts must be mounted on racks, using titanium clips, then submerged into the anodizing tanks. Electrical current must flow through your parts from the racks and will leave small contact points. We will need to know where critical points are located on your part, where no contact points are wanted. Please provide us with drawings, showing where racking is requested.

12. Alloy Types: It is helpful for us to know what series of aluminum your parts are made of, since different alloys have different conductivity. If your parts are run at the wrong amperage, burning of the anodic layer could take place.

13. Cast Aluminum: Some cast aluminum alloys cannot be anodized effectively, as cast aluminum may contain silica, which cannot be anodized, therefore making the surface non-uniform and uneven in color when a decorative finish is desired.

14. Hollow Sections: Parts that are either open-ended or closed on one end can be difficult, as air pockets can form and anodizing is reduced in this area. We will do our best to rack hollow parts to reduce air pockets from forming.

15. Assembled Parts: Disassembled parts are preferred as assembled parts that contain bolts or gaps can become trapped with the caustic anodizing solution that is corrosive and can be released during the sealing process. The corrosive caustic solution may ruin your freshly anodized parts. Also, be advised that any steel nuts, bolts or screws must be removed as the steel will be destroyed or dissolved by anodizing. You may use aluminum bolts and nuts if parts must be anodized while still assembled.

16. Screw Holes: Please advise us when any screw holes must be masked or plugged prior to anodizing. Controlling dimension is critical in a number of areas, including threaded holes and also in areas where parts need to fit together. The masking of these areas needs to be precise for parts to fit well together and achieve the desired outcome.

Rest assured, we will always do our best to anodize your parts in the manner that you expect. If we have questions about your parts, we will contact you to make certain that all info is given that is needed to have a high success rate. We know that giving your clients the anodized parts they are paying for is important and is beneficial to all.